How to set up your new ride for maximum confidence!
Oh new bike day, nothing quite like it! The thrill of taking your fresh whip for that first ride is unmatched. But before you hit the trails, there's one thing that can make the difference between a good ride and a truly great one - proper set up. Taking the time to dial in your bike can set the stage for confidence right from the start, helping you feel ready to send it on any terrain.
Read below for the must do's before that first ride!
Tip #1 - #wrapbeforeyouride
Want your bike to look brand new forevermore? Protected from scratches, dings, gouges that happen from trail debris, shuttle abrasion, shuttle damage and (hopefully not) rider mistakes (aka crashes)? Then head on over to RideWrap and get your bike frame protection kit so you can #ridemoreworryless. This is simply a must do for me, and I actually get it done before I even build my bikes.
Tip #2 - Brake set up
That cockpit set up is detrimental to comfort and control. Although there is more to cockpit than just brakes (think transfer post, shifter), there are a few must do's with those brakes prior to that first ride.
First, let's dial in the position of the brakes on the handlebar. Set your brakes up so when you place your hands on the bar, the edge of your hand meets the end of the bar and your index finger is at the end of the lever (yes, everyone should be one finger braking with the technology available today). Sure, some people ride inside their bars (meaning there is a gap between hand and edge of bar) and some people actually ride off their bars (as in the edge of their hands are slightly off the bar - ME!) but the general rule of thumb is to set it up to maximize your control of the entire bar.
Second, dial in the lever angle. The exact angle will depend on personal preference, riding style and terrain however keep in mind that you will need at least some pressure against your palms for descending. Typically, those that are riding steeper terrain (DH, Enduro) will go for a flatter angle, and those that are riding subtler terrain (traditional cross country) will go for a steeper angle. If those levers are too steep, it will encourage your body to come further forward over the front of the bike which is great for heading uphill, but can place you into a vulnerable position on the descents. I actually pull out the leveller of my phone (nerd alert!) and ensure that both brakes measure the same angle, too! (FYI, I run a 25 degree angle).
Third, adjust reach and bite point.
What IS reach? Reach - or amount of throw between the extended position of the levers and the point where the calipers and pads start to grab the rotors - is, you guessed it, a personal preference. You want to easily rest the end of your finger on that lever as well as make sure the bite point (how far the lever needs to travel before the brake pads contact the rotor) is not way out or alternatively way in. If it is too far out, your index finger will have to work hard to slow you down which will certainly contribute to fatigue.
If your lucky you'll have quick adjust knobs like I have on my Shimano XT (and other Shimano models) so you can easily play with this on your first ride or even beforehand when you dial in the next step!
Fourth, bed in those brakes!
Nothing like heading out on that inaugural ride only to blow the first corner. In order to begin the process of transferring the brake pad to the rotor, bedding the brakes is a necessary step. And it's simple! Accelerate to a moderate speed (on pavement or other smooth, flat surface is ideal), then apply brakes evenly to slow down to a walking pace. Repeat 20-30 times.
Tip #3 - Handlebar width
Handlebar width is yet again another variable that will depend on personal preference and is likely something that won't be dialled before this first ride (unless you already have a go to). But keep this information in mind before you go out AND during that first ride.
Since bars can be cut but not added, it's best to start on the wider side. FYI, most riders sit between 750-780. The sweet spot can be determined by coming down into a traditional push up position where your hands are just outside your shoulders and your upper arms are 45 degress from your torso - this is often a go to for many but do not rely on it as some of us will end up going wider (Me!) or narrower.
Once out on that first ride, if you feel like you cannot access ranges, maneuver quickly and navigate efficiently (and potentially trying to come to the inside of your bar with your hands), you might be chopping them down! (Pro tip: don't go more than 5 mm total a time to save potentially taking off too much). If you feel like you are reaching for more space off the bar then . . . oops. You might be saving to buy a new one.
My preferred bar is the Chromag OSX 35 25 mm rise measured out of the box at 800 mm so plenty of room to play with!
Tip #4 - Suspension set up
Perfecting suspension can take time, but best place to start is factory settings.
Head on over to Fox Suspension and they have a phenomenal on line tech center to help you manage those first ride settings!
Tip #5 - Tire pressure
Ultimately, you will end up playing around with tire pressure and determining what feels good for you. Most of us will search for the perfect balance between traction and rolling resistance and factors that come into play are the terrain you ride, tires you are running (as well as tubes or tubeless) as well as your weight.
But! Too much and you will be a pogo stick on that first ride and too little and well, you won't be going anywhere. Typically, I will see a tire with TOO MUCH air and this really messes with traction control resulting in a rough, potentially sketchy ride.
A great starting point is between 20-28 psi, with a couple more psi in the back as it takes on more weight and more of a beating than the front. Some will argue with me and want to go higher, but once you're at 30 psi, you're pushing the edge of traction control!
For comparison, I am 140 lbs and I run 19 psi on my front and 22 psi on my back. Since I run tubeless tires with tough casing, and technology in place for puncture and bead protection - the Wilderness Trail Bikes Verdict on the front and Judge on the back - I do get to run my pressures lower if I want. If it's really wet I down pressure by a couple psi at most both front and rear and if I head into the Bike Park (occasionally rough, always fast), I usually ramp up the front by 1-2 psi and the rear by about 3 psi.
Get out and ride!
While these basics are a solid starting point to ensure you enjoy that first ride, remember that bike setup is an ongoing process—fine-tuning will continue as you get to know your bike better on every ride. Get out there and embrace the journey!
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